Stenky - Aurora II (MR2 AW11)

libor12

Stenky,axle lock je 100%uzaverka. Samozrejme ze zustane uzavrena i v zatacce. Pouziva se hlavne do terenu,ale mam ji vyzkousenou i na aute na silnici(subaru sti impreza). Jedina nevyhoda je hlucnost v zatackach. To cvakani leze na mozek.

u typka co je dela jsem byl osobne,jenze jsme se nedohodli. Proti torsenu nic nemam a schvaluji! Jen ja chci neco jineho. Torsen na zadku je neco jineho nez na predku. Staci pak aby v zatacce odskocilo kolo a je vymalovano. Osobni zkusenost.

Thomas

AndyGTP napísal:Ing. Stenkouš, jaderní fyzik Co. UnLtd. bravo, tomu sa hovoria seriózne úpravy kámo!

Andy zle, hovoril som Ti že Stenky je astro fyzik!!!

Inak prevodovka paráda, mala by to byť pekná raketka

Andy a čo tá prevodovka? Mal som byť prvý v rade. pošli nejaké info

Srandista

stenky napísal:Navyse to ma pekne dlhy 6ty prevodovy stupen takze ekonomicke jazdy po dialnici su tiez mozne.

Tak ja C60 v aute mam, a 6ku by som potreboval na dialnicne presuny este poriadne natiahnut. Pri 130 mi to toci okolo 4000 otacok, a keby to padlo niekam ku 3000, vobec by som sa nehadal. A fakt by som bol ochotny obetovat aj vypadnutie z liftovej zony pri radeni z 5ky na 6ku, ono v takych rychlostiach sa clovek stejne moc nepohybuje (5ka na obmedzovaci znamena asi 220 km/h a vyssie som to tunak v CR uz fakt nehnal, sak to keby ma policajti cvakli, tak im s vodicakom odovzdam asi aj rodny list).

stenky

Ano ta 6 by mohla byt este dlhsia. Ale oproti C52 cca rovnako. Mozno je dokonca malilinko kratsia. Na C60 sa ale vraj da upgradnut 6stupen z dizloveho avensisa na dlhsi. Ak chces, zistim detaily.

Srandista

Urcite, toto by ma docela zaujimalo.

smugi

ako vidim, niekto uz nema problemy s hrdzou tak riesi zaujimavejsie veci

Uz som tiez nad niecim podobnym dumal, a c60 asi je ta naj cesta, mal si aj inu alternativu ? Lebo ja premyslam nad c160, ta je 6spd s LSD a rovnaky staly prevod ako c60. Si pockam na tvoje referencie. Super, ze si sa do toho pustil, aspon je s kym vymienat info. drzim palce.

stenky

C160 je v podstate daco podobne az na to ze na C60 nereisis orientaciu radiaceho mechanizmu

C160 ako FWD prevodovka to ma praveze opacne ale da sa to prerobit a LSD vies dat do hocakej C alebo S prevodovky

stenky

aha
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/engine ... -aw11.html

toto je prilis vela jebacky ked na C60 ti staci len prehodit bellhousingy a loziska na diferaku.

stenky

Na. Vobjednau som volake veci ako battery tray a dake 100A MIDI poistky, poistkovy box a koncovky na bateriove kable. Baterka pojde zo zadku do predneho kufra

Co bude s rezervou netusim

Len tie bateriove kable su dake drahe

Ale ked to chcem mat spravene poriadne (kostra potiahnuta az dozadu) tak to holt bude daco stat.

smugi

viem o tom,ze ta c160 je z fwd, len som myslel, nedomyslel

Aj tak je to len v stadiu, "co robit buducu zimu " heh. Tu baterku presuniem aj ja, len ma zaujima preco tahat kostru az zo zadu ?? To ma karoseria vacsi odpor ako ten super kabel ?

stenky

Kabel pojde dozadu len pre dobry pocit. Chcem to dat rovno na kablovu zilu. Nahodou to volade o kostru zaoxiduje a celemu autu zacne sibat. Na celice som preliezal kostry nejeden krat

stenky

Paula som poprosil aby stavbu frankensteina foto-dokumentoval. S radostou sa toho chytil a spisal aj akysi navodik ako na to. Nechavam to v povodnom zneni aby ennastal prekladaci sum

v kazdom pripade prevodovka je hotova a buduci tyzden sa zabali na paletu a posle kurvierom ku mne domov

Stenky ordered one from me and wanted a few build pics, so i thought i'd do a mini build thread showing what is involved. I haven't included the work stripping the 6 speed box or the Mk1 box down to their component parts, this is just the new 6 speed Mk1 gearbox build up.

So we start with our Mk1b bellhousing, this has to be a Mk1b item, a Mk1a housing is not compatable with this conversion, you can identify a Mk1b gearbox because it has two starter motor locations on it, a Mk1a only has one. So this has been steam cleaned and degreased with all bearings removed.

This is all of the 6 speed internal parts from the donor C60 gearbox...

Here are all of the new bearings and seals from Toyota, nearly £400 worth, not a lot for the money but essential if this is to be done right.

This gearbox is getting the Mk3 LSD unit, so the first step is to remove the old bearings from the Mk3 LSD...

The Mk3 speedo cog is the same as a Mk1 cog, so the speedo will work as before.

Now install the new bearings onto the diff...

Now fit the 6 speed crownwheel onto the LSD, for the non LSD version you use the MK1 diff and Mk1 crownwheel which is also the same gear size but a different bolt PCD...

Now we fit the original diff washer into the case, this one is a fixed 2mm width, we adjust the preload on the diff by changing the thickness of the opposing shim in the other half of the case....

The new bearing race is then fitted...

Now we install the new output shaft bearing...

Not forgetting the retainer and bolt...

Now we fit the new input shaft bearing...

The adjustment shim is fitted to the middle case, this shim is what affects the load on the diff...

And the new race fitted over that...

This shim will need to come back out if the preload is not correct.

Now to adjust the preload we need to install both the diff and output shaft into the case...

The mid case is then dummy fitted and all bolts torqued down as it would be on the finished box, the top snap ring is also fitted...

A 14mm headed M10x1.25 bolt is screwed into the top of the output shaft so my torque meter can be used...

Rotating the meter reveals how much resistance there is on the new diff bearings, if it is too much then the case comes apart again, top shim replaced for a slightly thinner one and the case refitted again, this process is repeated until the correct diff preload is obtained. For info, 0.05 shim thickness results in 3.5 in/lbs of difference to the preload, the shims are available from Toyota in 0.05 increments.

Now that the preload is correct we can start to build the gearbox up properly starting with the input shaft and one of the selectors...

The rest of the selectors are then refitted...

Then three selector retaining bolts are fitted...

The lower selector detent ball and spring are now fitted....

Fit the case magnet...

Now time for the reverse selector...

The reverse idler is now added...

The shaft on this needs to be orientated correctly to the case or the retaining bolt on the outside won't line up...

Now the case is ready for sealant...

With the middle case fitted and all bolts torqued down for the final time, the reverse idler bolt can be fitted...

Now both snap rings are fitted to input and output shafts...

Add the shaft retainer plate and bolts..

Fit the selector circlip...

Install both upper selector detent balls/springs...

Now add 5th driven gear...

The roller bearing for 5th....

Refit the 5th/6th selector fork and synchro hub along with circlip....

Fit selector fork bolt...

Fit roller bearing and synchro ring....

Refit 6th gears, top bearings and circlips....

Refit end casing...

Turn the gearbox over and install the inner bellhousing bolts, input shaft oil seal and release bearing trumpet...

The outer selector assembly then slides back in, add the Mk1 reverse light switch and that's it!